Drip Irrigation for Trees and Shrubs: Installation Guide for Healthy Growth

Installing a drip irrigation system transforms how you care for trees and shrubs. Instead of dragging hoses around your yard, setting up tree watering bags, or worrying about under-watering during hot months, drip irrigation delivers precise amounts of water directly to plant roots—automatically and efficiently.

This guide walks you through everything needed to install drip irrigation for trees and shrubs, from understanding why it works to step-by-step installation instructions that work for DIY homeowners.

Why Choose Drip Irrigation for Trees and Shrubs?

Trees and shrubs have different watering needs than lawns. Their root systems extend deeper into the soil, and they benefit from slow, consistent watering rather than quick surface applications. Drip irrigation solves several common watering challenges:

Water goes exactly where plants need it. Rather than spraying water over wide areas, drip systems deliver moisture directly to the root zone. This reduces water waste by up to 50% compared to traditional sprinklers and ensures every drop reaches the plants that need it.

Automated watering saves time. Once installed, drip systems run on timers or smart controllers, eliminating the need to manually water each plant or refill tree watering bags. This consistency helps newly planted trees and shrubs establish faster and keeps mature plants healthier during drought conditions.

Individual plant control prevents overwatering. Trees planted in clay soil need different watering rates than shrubs in sandy soil. Drip irrigation allows you to adjust flow rates for each plant using different emitter sizes—from 0.5 gallons per hour (GPH) for small shrubs to 4 GPH or higher for large trees, or even adjustable micro-bubblers that can deliver up to 29 GPH for newly planted trees that need extra water during establishment.

Deep root development improves plant health. Slow water application encourages roots to grow deeper rather than staying near the surface. This creates stronger, more drought-resistant plants that are less likely to blow over during storms.

What Components Do You Need?

A basic drip irrigation system for trees and shrubs includes several key components that work together to deliver water efficiently. Understanding each part helps you plan your installation and troubleshoot issues later.

Water source connection: Most residential systems connect to an outdoor faucet using a specialized adapter. The Orbit 3-in-1 Drip Faucet Adapter (67739) combines a filter, pressure regulator, and 1/2-inch drip connection in a single fitting—simplifying installation by eliminating multiple components.

Backflow preventer: This device prevents irrigation water from flowing backward into your home's drinking water supply. Many municipalities require backflow preventers for all outdoor irrigation systems. Orbit offers a compact anti-siphon valve that attach securely to faucets.

Pressure regulator: Drip systems operate at much lower pressure than standard home water pressure. A pressure regulator reduces pressure to the optimal 20-30 PSI range that drip emitters need to function correctly. If using the 3-in-1 adapter, this is already included.

Filter: Even clean municipal water contains small particles that can clog drip emitters over time. A 150-mesh filter or finer removes debris before water enters your distribution lines. Again, the 3-in-1 adapter includes this component.

Distribution tubing: The main water line that runs through your landscape. The 1/2-inch tubing carries water from the source to individual plants. Use Drip-Lock for tool-free connections that create secure, leak-free joints.

For large properties over 200 feet, consider upgrading to 3/4-inch or 1-inch Blu-Lock or PVC-Lock pipe for the main supply line, then reducing down to 1/2-inch Drip-Lock laterals using reducing tees. For smaller areas, you can also use 1/4-inch distribution tubing that runs directly from drip manifolds or the water source.

Emitters, bubblers, and micro-sprays: These devices control how much water each plant receives. Standard drip emitters release water at fixed rates (commonly 0.5, 1, 2, or 4 GPH). Adjustable micro-bubblers allow you to dial in flow rates from nearly zero up to 29 GPH—ideal for large shrubs, newly planted trees, and specimens that need more water during establishment. Micro-sprays provide broader coverage and work well for larger plants or multiple shrubs grouped together.

Drip-Lock fittings: Unlike traditional barb fittings, Drip-Lock fittings use tool-free connections with watertight seals that press together securely without tools. Tees, elbows, couplings, and adapters connect tubing sections and create branches to reach multiple plants. For adding multiple 1/4-inch outlets without punching holes in your mainline, the Drip-Lock 2-Port Manifold (67046) installs inline on your 1/2-inch tubing and provides two 1/4-inch ports. Need even more outlets in one location? The Drip-Lock 2-Port Extension Manifold (67047) inserts into the 67046 or other Drip-Lock fittings to add two additional 1/4-inch ports, creating a modular system for complex planting areas.

Stakes and end caps: Plastic stakes hold tubing in place, while figure-8 end caps seal the ends of your distribution lines and allow you to flush the system periodically to remove accumulated sediment.

For complete tree and shrub watering systems with adjustable flow control, see our detailed guide on drip irrigation for trees.

How Many Emitters Do Trees and Shrubs Need?

Getting the right number and placement of emitters is crucial for healthy plant growth. Too few emitters create dry spots in the root zone, while too many waste water.

Small shrubs (under 4 feet tall): Most small shrubs thrive with one or two 1-2 GPH emitters placed 6-12 inches from the plant base. Space emitters on opposite sides of the plant to encourage even root development.

Medium shrubs and perennials: Plants 4-6 feet tall typically need 2-4 emitters at 1-2 GPH each. Position emitters around the drip line—the area where rain would naturally drip from the outer leaves.

Large shrubs (over 6 feet): Established large shrubs benefit from 4-6 emitters placed in a circle at the drip line. Consider using 2 GPH emitters, adjustable micro-bubblers, or micro-sprays that provide broader coverage. A single micro-spray can often replace multiple individual emitters for very large shrubs. A tree ring using a emitter tubing could also be used for large shrubs and trees. You can learn more about them in our post on Drip Irrigation for Trees.

Newly planted trees: Young trees need consistent moisture at the root ball during establishment. Micro-bubblers work exceptionally well here because you can adjust flow rates as the tree establishes and grows. Place 2-4 adjustable bubblers or micro-sprays around the root ball perimeter, not against the trunk. Start with higher flow rates (15-20 GPH total) during establishment, then reduce as roots spread. The goal is to keep the original root ball moist while encouraging roots to grow into surrounding soil.

Established trees: As trees mature, move emitters outward toward the drip line and add more as the canopy expands. A mature tree may need 6-10 emitters or more, depending on size and water requirements. For large trees, consider using a combination of micro-bubblers or micro-sprays that deliver higher flow rates. Trees larger than 25 feet at maturity become impractical for drip irrigation due to their extensive root systems.

Soil type affects emitter placement. In sandy soil, water moves downward quickly with minimal lateral spread, so emitters should be placed 12 inches apart. Clay soil allows water to spread laterally, permitting 24-inch spacing. Loam soil falls in between at 18-inch spacing. To improve all soil types, use mulch around the base of the trees. Check with your extension office or local nursery for more information and recommendations. 

Step-by-Step: How to Install Drip Irrigation System for Trees

Installing a drip irrigation system for trees and shrubs is straightforward once you understand the basic layout. Most homeowners complete installation in a few hours for a typical yard.

Step 1: Plan Your Layout

Walk your property and identify all trees and shrubs you want to water. Sketch a simple map showing plant locations and the shortest path for your mainline tubing from the water source. Group plants with similar water needs together when possible—this makes programming irrigation schedules easier later.

Measure distances to determine how much tubing you'll need. For 1/2-inch Drip-Lock tubing, limit runs to approximately 200 feet maximum to maintain adequate pressure. If your property is larger, consider using 3/4-inch or 1-inch Blu-Lock or PVC-Lock for the main supply line, then reducing to 1/2-inch Drip-Lock laterals. Multiple zones controlled by separate valves also work for extensive properties.

Step 2: Connect to Your Water Source

Start at your outdoor faucet or sprinkler valve. The simplest approach uses the Orbit 3-in-1 Drip Faucet Adapter (67739):

1. Attach the 3-in-1 adapter directly to your faucet. The integrated anti-siphon valve secures with a screw—no wrench needed.

2. Connect your 1/2-inch Drip-Lock tubing directly to the adapter outlet using the tool-free connection.

If you prefer separate components or already have a backflow preventer installed:

1. Attach the backflow preventer to the faucet, securing it according to the specific model's instructions.

2. Connect the pressure regulator to the backflow preventer.

3. Add the filter next in line.

4. Attach an adapter to the filter, which connects to your 1/2-inch Drip-Lock distribution tubing.

If connecting to a timer for automatic operation, place the timer between the faucet and backflow preventer or 3-in-1 adapter. Battery-operated hose timers work well for most residential applications.

Step 3: Run Distribution Tubing to Your Plants

Unroll your 1/2-inch Drip-Lock mainline tubing and lay it along the path you mapped earlier. The tubing will be stiff when new; leaving it in the sun for an hour or two makes it more flexible and easier to work with.

Run the tubing next to your trees and shrubs, using wire stakes every 3-4 feet to hold it in place. You can run tubing above ground, bury it under 2-3 inches of mulch, or trench it 4-6 inches deep if you prefer a more permanent, hidden installation. We recommend hiding it under mulch, that way it is easy to get to while being out of sight.

Where tubing needs to branch in different directions, cut the tubing and insert a Drip-Lock tee fitting. The connections press together by hand with stainless steel teeth gripping the tubing and seals creating watertight joints—simply push firmly until seated. No tools, clamps, or glue required.

Step 4: Add Outlets and Emitters

You have several options for connecting emitters to your mainline:

Option 1 - Punch and insert (traditional method): Use a drip punch tool to create holes in your 1/2-inch mainline wherever you need an emitter. Hold the punch perpendicular to the tubing and grip firmly to create a clean hole. Press 1/4-inch barbed fittings into these holes, then attach emitters or micro-bubblers. Each connect will need to be checked to ensure a clean punch. If you spot any leaks insert a goof plug and try again.

Option 2 - No-punch manifold outlets: For easier installation, especially when you need multiple drip lines in one location, use the Drip-Lock 2-Port Manifold (67046). This fitting installs inline on your 1/2-inch Drip-Lock tubing and provides two 1/4-inch barbed outlets—no hole punching required. If you need even more outlets in one spot, insert the Drip-Lock 2-Port Extension Manifold (67047) into the 67046 to add two more 1/4-inch ports. This modular approach works great for areas with multiple plants grouped together. Plus, each fitting comes with plugs so you can easily plug unused outlets.

For plants that need multiple emitters or are located away from the mainline, run 1/4-inch distribution tubing from the mainline to each plant location, then attach individual emitters, micro-bubblers, or micro-sprays at each plant. You can have up to 5 emitters on each 1/4" line depending on available flow rate (GPH) and pressure.

Emitter and bubbler placement matters. Never place emitters directly against tree trunks or shrub stems—this keeps bark constantly wet and can cause rot. Instead, position emitters at least 6-12 inches away from trunks. For newly planted trees, place micro-bubblers in a circle around the root ball. For established trees and large shrubs, position bubblers or micro-sprays at the drip line for optimal root coverage.

Step 5: Install End Caps and Flush the System

At the end of each tubing run, install a figure-8 end cap. Before sealing the ends, turn on the water and let it run for 2-3 minutes to flush out any dirt or debris that entered during installation. Once water runs clear, close the end caps.

Step 6: Test and Adjust Your System

Turn on the water and walk through your entire system checking for leaks and proper emitter function. Verify that each plant receives water and adjust micro-bubbler flow rates if needed by rotating the adjustment cap.

If you find leaks at Drip-Lock connections, disconnect the fitting, inspect the seal for damage or debris, and reconnect firmly. If an emitter appears clogged or sprays a fine mist rather than dripping, remove it and clear the opening, or replace it with a new emitter. Did you know most Orbit emitters are maintainable? they are designed to taken apart and cleaned rather than thrown away and replaced.

Program your timer to water 2-3 times per week for 30-60 minutes per session (10-15 minutes if using bubblers or micro-sprays). This is depending on weather, soil type, and plant maturity. The goal is deep, infrequent watering that encourages roots to grow downward. Use a B-hyve timer or controller in Smart mode to have the watering automatically adjusted!

What Flow Rate Should You Use?

Choosing the right emitter flow rate depends on your soil type, plant size, and local climate conditions. The wrong flow rate either wastes water or leaves plants under-watered.

Clay soil: Use lower flow rates (0.5-1 GPH) because clay absorbs water slowly. Higher flow rates cause runoff before water can soak in. Run your system longer at lower flow rates rather than shorter at higher rates.

Sandy soil: Higher flow rates (2-4 GPH) work well because sandy soil absorbs water quickly but doesn't spread it laterally. You may need more emitters per plant in sandy soil to wet a sufficient area of the root zone.

Loam soil: This balanced soil type works with medium flow rates (1-2 GPH for most applications). Loam absorbs water at a moderate pace and spreads it reasonably well through the root zone.

Adjustable micro-bubblers offer maximum flexibility. Unlike fixed-rate emitters, adjustable micro-bubblers let you dial in the exact flow rate each plant needs—from nearly zero up to 29 GPH. This is particularly useful when watering plants of different sizes on the same zone, newly planted trees that need extra water during establishment, or as plants grow and their water needs increase over time. Complete kits with adjustable micro-bubblers eliminate guesswork during initial setup.

WARNING: At higher GPH settings the micro-bubblers could use more water than a traditional sprinkler.

Consider pressure-compensating emitters. These maintain consistent flow rates even when water pressure varies along the line. If you have a long tubing run or uneven terrain, pressure-compensating emitters ensure plants at the far end of your system receive the same amount of water as those near the source.

How Far Can You Run Drip Tubing?

Distance limitations exist for drip irrigation because water pressure drops as it travels through tubing. Understanding these limits prevents installation problems.

1/2-inch Drip-Lock tubing: Maximum recommended run is approximately 200-250 feet from the water source. Beyond this distance, pressure drops too low for emitters to function properly.

For runs over 200 feet: Use 3/4-inch or 1-inch Blu-Lock or PVC-Lock pipe for your main supply line. These larger diameter pipes maintain pressure over longer distances. Install 1/2-inch reducing tees along the main line to connect 1/2-inch Drip-Lock lateral lines that serve individual planting areas. The Drip-Lock fittings thread easily into standard reducing tees, making the transition simple.

1/4-inch distribution tubing: Limit runs to 30 feet maximum. This smaller tubing experiences significant pressure drop over distance. For plants located far from your mainline, run additional 1/2-inch tubing closer rather than using excessively long 1/4-inch laterals.

Total GPH capacity: On a single 1/2-inch line, limit total emitter flow to 150-220 GPH depending on the specific tubing and fittings used. This means if you're using 2 GPH emitters, you can support 75-110 emitters on one zone. With micro-bubblers running at higher flow rates, fewer outlets can be supported per zone. Check your component specifications for exact limits.

The 50 feet of distribution tubing included in many starter kits can be expanded as your landscape grows. Add additional tubing lengths using Drip-Lock couplings but remember the total distance and GPH limitations. Most outdoor household faucets can provide 300 GPH. However, the age, condition, pipe diameter, and water pressure will all affect the total GPH.

How to measure your own flow rate

Troubleshooting and Quick Answers

Even properly installed systems occasionally develop issues. Here's how to address the most common problems and quick answers to frequent questions.

Why is no water coming from my emitters?

Check that your water source is turned on and your timer is functioning. Verify that the pressure regulator and filter aren't clogged. Remove end caps and confirm water flows through the mainline—if not, there's a blockage or closed valve upstream. Inspect individual emitters to ensure they haven't been closed accidentally (adjustable micro-bubblers have shut-off positions).

Why do my emitters spray mist instead of dripping?

This indicates a clogged emitter. Dirt or mineral deposits restrict the opening, creating pressure that turns drips into spray. For pressure-compensating emitters with removable caps, remove the cap, clear debris, and reinstall. For micro-bubblers, rotate the cap to the full-open position and allow water to flush debris. If cleaning doesn't help, replace the emitter.

Why should I flush my distribution tubing?

Drip irrigation systems use fittings and emitters with very small openings. Even with a quality filter, small particles of dirt, sand, or mineral deposits can accumulate over time and clog emitters. Flush your system monthly during active growing season by removing end caps and allowing water to flow freely for 2-3 minutes. Water should run clear—if you see sediment, continue flushing. New systems should be flushed immediately after installation before adding end caps.

How do I fix leaks at fittings?

For Drip-Lock fittings, disconnect the fitting, inspect the seal for damage or debris, and reconnect firmly. The seal should be clean and properly seated in its groove. If problems persist, the seal may be damaged and the fitting should be replaced. For barbed fittings in punched holes, check that fittings are fully inserted into tubing. Remove the fitting, verify the hole isn't damaged or oversized, and reinsert firmly. If the hole is damaged, seal it with a goof plug and punch a new hole nearby or use the Drip-Lock manifolds (67046/67047) to avoid punching altogether.

Why do some plants receive water while others don't?

This suggests either clogged emitters on the dry plants, or insufficient pressure reaching the far end of your tubing. If only distant plants are dry, your tubing run may be too long, or you have too many emitters on one zone. Consider splitting into multiple zones, upgrading to larger supply pipe (Blu-Lock or PVC-Lock), or using pressure-compensating emitters.

Why does water pool around emitters without soaking in?

Your flow rate is too high for your soil type. Switch to lower-GPH emitters or adjust micro-bubblers to deliver less water per hour. Alternatively, split watering time into shorter cycles with a soak period between—this gives water time to penetrate without runoff. In clay soils especially, lower flow rates over longer periods work better than high flow rates.

How often should I clean my filter?

Remove and clean your filter every 1-2 months during the growing season. Unscrew the filter housing, remove the screen, and rinse it under running water to remove accumulated debris. A clogged filter reduces pressure throughout your system. If you notice reduced performance across multiple emitters, a dirty filter is often the culprit. The 3-in-1 Drip Faucet Adapter (67739) includes an easily accessible filter that removes for cleaning.

What maintenance does my system need?

• Monthly: Flush the system and visually inspect for leaks or damage.
• Every 1-2 months: Clean the filter.
• Seasonally: Check all emitters for clogs and inspect tubing for damage from foot traffic or garden tools.
• Annually: Verify pressure regulator function and inspect backflow preventer per local regulations.
• Winter: In cold climates, drain the system before the first hard freeze by removing end caps and letting gravity drain all water.

How long should I run my drip system?

Most systems should run 2-3 times per week for 30-60 minutes per session, depending on weather, soil type, GPH output, and plant maturity. The goal is deep watering that encourages downward root growth. Clay soils need longer run times at lower flow rates. Sandy soils may need more frequent, shorter sessions. Adjust seasonally—reduce watering in cooler months and increase during hot, dry periods. B-hyve Smart controllers can automatically adjust schedules based on weather conditions.

How Does Drip Irrigation Compare to Soaker Hoses?

Both drip irrigation and soaker hoses deliver water at the soil surface, but they work differently and suit different applications. Drip irrigation delivers water only where you place emitters, making it ideal for trees and shrubs with irregular spacing. You can customize flow rates for each plant using different emitter sizes, and systems can extend 200+ feet with proper design. Soaker hoses seep water along their entire length and work well for uniform plantings like hedges or garden rows, but don't allow individual plant control.

For a detailed comparison including specific applications, installation differences, and cost considerations, see our comprehensive guide comparing drip irrigation vs soaker hose.

Can You Install Drip Irrigation Yourself?

Yes! Drip irrigation installation is one of the most DIY-friendly irrigation projects. The Drip-Lock system eliminates the complexity of traditional barbed fittings by using tool-free connections that press together by hand. Unlike traditional sprinkler systems that require trenching, pipe cutting and gluing, and complex pressure calculations, drip systems use simple connections that require no special tools beyond a cutter and a punch tool (and even punching can be avoided using manifold fittings like the 67046 and 67047).

Most homeowners complete a basic system installation in 2-4 hours of work. The physical demands are minimal—you're primarily laying tubing on the ground, waiting for it to soften, and pressing fittings together. No digging is required for above-ground installations, though you can bury tubing under mulch if you prefer a cleaner appearance.

The main skill required is planning your layout to ensure adequate coverage while staying within system capacity limits. Start with a small area like a group of shrubs or newly planted trees. Once you understand how components connect, expanding to additional areas becomes straightforward.

Pre-assembled kits simplify first installations by including all necessary components in correct proportions. A typical kit for 10 plants includes the water source connection, distribution tubing, adjustable micro-bubblers, stakes, fittings, and a punch tool—everything needed for a complete, functional system. The adjustable micro-bubblers included in kits like Orbit's 69525 and 69535 provide flexibility to dial in the perfect flow rate for each plant without buying multiple emitter sizes.

The hands-free convenience and water savings make drip irrigation one of the best investments for any landscape with trees and shrubs. Once installed, your plants receive consistent moisture while you save time, reduce water bills, and promote healthier root development.