There are overlapping start times programmed. Clear all start times and then enter only one start time. If you would like to water more than once a day, enter the next start time for later in the day. A start time is the initial time of day when the timer will begin to water. Each station or zone will then water in sequence according to its chosen duration. Multiple start times allow you to water all stations more than once in the same watering day.

A start time is the initial time of day when the timer will begin to water. Each station or zone will then water in sequence according to its chosen duration. Multiple start times allow you to water all stations more than once in the same watering day.

Programming instructions are included with each timer. These instructions are available for each timer in the Product Manual section. Browse the online catalog to find your timer or use the search at the top of every page! Orbit also offers an online tutorial and video on how to program your timer in the Video and Tutorial Support Sections.

One or more of the electric control valves has a shorted solenoid, or there is a short in the wiring. If you have a multimeter or volt meter you can check your wiring and solenoids for shorts and continuity. Otherwise, try switching another solenoid from a functioning valve to see if the problem valve will turn on. If so, replace the solenoid. If not, you may have to replace the wiring.

Check the transformer for output (24VAC). Push the red power reset button or verify that the fuse is good. Turn on a station manually and check the output at that station (24 VAC). If there is proper voltage, there may be a problem with the wiring or the solenoid on that valve. If the valve has a flow control, be sure it is open all the way. If there is low or no voltage, the timer needs to be replaced.

There is an error in programming. Reset the timer and then reprogram.

This is generally a wiring problem between the timer and the valves. To be sure, check the output at the timer and verify that there is voltage only at the station that the display indicates is watering. If so, then electrical current from one valve is transferring to the wires on the other valve causing them both to open. Replace the wiring to the valves.

This is generally because of a ruptured or torn diaphragm in one or more of the control valves. Be sure that the valve is not installed backwards. Make sure the solenoid plunger is not stuck or missing. Remove the solenoid and check for debris or a missing plunger. If everything looks functional, remove the cover assembly and check the diaphragm and lower valve body diaphragm seat for chips, fractures, or debris. If the diaphragm is torn, ruptured, or has a tiny pin hole, replace it. If there is a chip or fracture in the lower valve body, replace the valve. For additional help, refer to the troubleshooting section of the specific valve model number.

To Increase the Arc Insert the plastic end of the Orbit key into the pattern adjustment socket. While holding the nozzle turret at the right stop, turn the key clockwise. Each full turn of the key increase the arc 90 degrees. Adjust to any arc between 40 & 360 degrees. When the maximum arc (360) is reach, the key will stop turning or there will be a ratcheting noise. To Decrease the Arc Insert the plastic end of the Orbit key into the pattern adjustment socket. While holding the nozzle turret at the right stop, turn the key counterclockwise. Each full turn of the key decreases the arc 90 degrees. Adjust to any arc between 40 and 360 degrees. When the minimum arc (40) is reached, the key will stop turning or there will be a ratcheting noise.

LIMITED WARRANTY Orbit® Irrigation Products, Inc., (hereinafter “Orbit®”) warrants to its customers that its products will be free from defects in material and workmanship for a period of one year from the date of purchase, unless otherwise stated on the product packaging (proof of purchase required). During the warranty period, Orbit®, will replace, free of charge, the part or parts found to be defective under reasonable use and service, as determined solely by Orbit®. Orbit® reserves the right to inspect the defective part prior to replacement. Liability under this warranty is limited to the replacement or repair of defective parts. This warranty is exclusive and is in lieu of all other warranties expressed or implied, including, but not limited to warranties for fitness, for use or merchantability. No agent or representative has authority to waive or alter this warranty in any way.

In its simplest form, misting systems incorporate a spray nozzle designed to produce water droplets smaller than the diameter of a human hair, even as small as 5 millionths of a meter. When water droplets this small hit the surrounding air they "flash evaporate", reducing the surrounding temperature as much as 35 degrees fahrenheit. This scientific principle, known as thermal dynamics, was the basis for the development of Arizona Mist.

Yes. The evaporative cooling concept will work ANY time you are able to achieve evaporation (See "How does mist work?"). The more complete the evaporation, the more effective the system will work. For areas with humidity above 80%, temperature reductions will be as high as 10 degrees. For humidity levels between 40% and 80%, temperature reductions will be as high as 20 degrees. Below 40% humidity, the temperature reductions may be as much as 35 degrees.

Because of the extremely small size of the nozzle opening (15 thousands of an inch!), some of the misting nozzles may eventually plug up. If this should occur, the nozzle should be removed and soaked in the Arizona Mist Nozzle Cleaner (See the bottle label for specific cleaning instructions). If the nozzle is not completely plugged, but simply sprays improperly, the entire mist line can be flushed with the nozzle cleaner for a preventative nozzle cleaning. The nozzle cleaner is safe for consumption, non-toxic and completely biodegradable. See the cleaner label for technical information.

Sprinkler Designer currently accepts designs up to 600 feet on either side, however if the design is larger than 400 ft. on any side, the design becomes difficult to read because it is reduced to fit inside the viewable screen. If you have a design that is larger than 600 feet on either side, we recommend that you split the design in half and submit two separate designs.

For medium sized areas of your property, we recommend that you use four inch pop-up heads to ensure that the heads clear the top of your grass when in the "up" position. For large areas of your property, we recommend the large gear drive heads since they are more efficient and easier to use. For shrubs and flowerbeds, we recommend the mushroom bubbler because it requires less water flow to run.

PVC pipe is the stiff white plastic pipe. It is very durable, however it is harder to place at odd angles. POLY pipe is durable hose-like pipe. Since it is similar to a garden hose, it is naturally easier to bend around corners, yet it's not as durable as PVC.

Since our current program represents only the most common house shapes, we recommend that you use the shape that most closely resembles your house, and then use the "unwatered areas" icon to detail your house. (The Sprinkler Designer program considers "unwatered areas" to be virtually anything, therefore the program assumes that pipe cannot be placed beneath it).

Use the "unwatered area" icon because it is considered to be anything that you do not want watered. Pipe will not be placed underneath it.

Do the entire landscape as if the entire desert area will be watered. Next, email the design to design@diyonline.com with specific instructions describing the areas you would like watered.

Only the last two months of Sprinkler Designs are retained on the server. If you need a design older than two months recalled for your viewing, email design@diyonline.com for retrieval.

The most common types of errors that would prevent you from receiving the email notifying you that your design is ready, is that you either misspelled your email address or your AOL preferences are set to block unknown email addresses. Please click this link to search for your design http://www.diy-online.com/enterany.html

You may need to update your version of our Sprinkler Designer program. You can download the latest version by clicking the "Try our Sprinkler System Designer" button at the top. After the Sprinkler Designer is reinstalled, please try to print your Specification Kit again.

Basic Winterizing There are several things that must be done to winterize a sprinkler system. The first step is to determine if the system uses auto-drain valves. If Auto-drain valves are present, then all you need to do is turn the main water supply off, and then loosen the solenoid on each valve to let air inside. The water should flow down hill and out of each zone through the auto drain valve. You may have a manual drain for the main line between the shut-off valve and the valve manifolds. If a valve is present open it to allow all water to drain. If you system does not use auto-drain valves, then an air compressor must be used to blow the water out of the zones. Turn off the main water supply to the sprinkler system, and hook up an air compressor to the system. Pressurize the tank to about 60 psi and then open on of the valves manually. Run that station for 2 to 3 minutes to allow all the water to be removed from the system. Shut that valve off and pressurize the tank again. Repeat for the next zone. After all zones are empty, loosen the solenoids to allow air to enter the top of the valve. This is a general guideline for winterizing a system. You system may require additional steps depending on the particular installation. There are services available in the Yellow Pages to perform this task for you. Please look under Sprinkler Installation if you need someone else to do the work. Note: Air Compressors will also need an air flow rate between 4 and 8 cubic feet per minute.

The battery compartment is located on the back left side if you are looking at the face of the timer. If you feel along the left side of the timer you will feel an indentation and see a little slit that a screwdriver can be put in to slide the tray out to the left. Or you can take the timer off of the wall and turn it over and you will see the square tray that slides out.